A cat that wees next to the litter box is rarely being stubborn. Usually something isn't right about the box, its spot or the litter, or your cat isn't feeling well. The good news: a few simple choices solve most problems, or stop them happening in the first place.
In this article:
- How many boxes do you need?
- The right size
- Open or covered?
- The best spot
- Which litter?
- Cleaning
- If your cat wees next to it
- Teaching a kitten or a new cat
How many boxes? One per cat, plus one
The rule of thumb vets and behaviourists go by: one box per cat, plus one extra. So with two cats, you put out three. That may seem a lot, but cats don't like sharing their toilet, and a box that is occupied or dirty is reason enough for some cats to go elsewhere.
Important: to your cat, two boxes side by side count as one. Spread them over different rooms, and if you live on several floors, put at least one on each floor. Even a single cat benefits from a second box, especially an older cat who is less keen on stairs.
Two cats, three boxes, each in a different room and not next to the food.
How big should the box be?
Most boxes in the shops are smaller than a cat would really like. A good size is about one and a half times your cat's length, from nose to the base of the tail. Your cat should be able to turn round, scratch and sit in it without its back legs hanging over the edge.
- Kittens need a low entry, or they won't climb in.
- Older cats with stiff joints appreciate a low rim or a box with a cut-out at the front.
- Cats that wee high up or kick out a lot of litter are better off with a box that has high sides and a low entry.
Open or covered?
A covered box keeps the smell in, but that is mostly nice for you. For your cat, the smell lingers, and a box with a single entrance feels like a trap to some cats: they can't see who is coming and can't get out quickly. That matters all the more if there are several cats or a dog in the house.
Given the choice, many cats go for an open box. Not sure? Put an open and a covered box side by side and see which one your cat uses. It will tell you soon enough. If you use a covered box, leave the flap off if your cat hesitates, and replace the carbon filter in good time.
Where should you put the litter box?
The spot matters at least as much as the box itself. A cat on the toilet is briefly vulnerable and wants to feel safe.
- Quiet, but not tucked away. A corner of a room where people aren't constantly walking through, but that your cat can easily reach.
- Not next to food and water. Cats don't like eating next to their toilet. Keep a few metres between them, ideally a different room.
- Not next to the washing machine or tumble dryer. One fright from a spin cycle can be enough for a cat to avoid a box.
- With an escape route. Your cat needs to be able to see who is coming in and to walk away. That is why a box at the back of a narrow cupboard often works badly.
- Always within reach. A door that sometimes swings shut or a cat flap that sticks is enough to cause an accident.
If you move the box, do it gradually, half a metre a day, or put the new box down first before taking the old one away.
Which litter?
Every litter has its pros and cons. More important than which one you choose is that your cat is happy to use it, and that you don't switch too often.
| Type | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Clumping (bentonite) | Fine grain that many cats like, clumps are easy to scoop | Heavy, can be dusty, not compostable |
| Silica litter | Absorbs a lot of moisture, locks in odour well, light | Coarse grain that some cats don't like the feel of under their paws |
| Plant-based (corn, wheat, tofu) | Light, often clumping, some types compostable | More expensive, must be stored dry |
| Wood pellets | Natural, absorbent, cheap to use | Breaks down into sawdust that gets tracked around easily |
Two things almost always apply. Choose unscented: what smells fresh to us is often far too strong for a cat's nose. And fill the box with about five to seven centimetres of litter, enough to dig in but not so much that your cat sinks into it.
Want to switch? Mix the new litter into the old over a week or two, a little more each time. A sudden change is a common reason for a cat to stop using the box.
Scooping every day keeps the box fresh, for your cat and for your nose.
Cleaning: scoop every day
A cat's nose is many times more sensitive than ours. A box that still seems just about fine to you is already dirty to your cat.
- Scoop at least once a day, ideally twice. Remove clumps and droppings and top up to the right depth.
- Replace all the litter as soon as scooping is no longer enough. With clumping litter that is usually every two to four weeks; with silica, follow the instructions on the packaging.
- Wash the box every time you replace all the litter, with warm water and a mild soap. Avoid strong-smelling products, and never mix bleach with other cleaning products.
- Replace the box itself once the plastic bottom is deeply scratched: odour and bacteria linger in scratches.
A handy side effect of scooping every day: you notice straight away if something changes. Many more or larger clumps, very few, or blood in the urine are reasons to call the vet.
If your cat wees next to it
Always start with the vet. Cystitis, bladder crystals, kidney problems, diabetes and painful joints are common reasons why a cat suddenly avoids the box. It links the pain to the box and looks for somewhere else.
“Is your male cat repeatedly straining in the box with nothing coming out? Call the vet straight away, even at night. A blocked urethra is life-threatening.”
Important to know
If your cat has been given a clean bill of health, go through this list:
- Has anything changed about the litter, the box or its spot?
- Is the box scooped often enough?
- Are there enough boxes for the number of cats?
- Is there something new in the house: a baby, another animal, a house move, building work, a neighbour's cat at the window?
- Does it wee on soft things (a rug, the laundry) or on cool, smooth ones (a tiled floor, the bath)? That tells you something about the surface it is looking for.
Clean the spot of the accident thoroughly with an enzyme cleaner. Ordinary cleaning products remove the smell for you, but not for your cat. If needed, put an extra box where it keeps going, then slowly move it to where you want it.
Never punish your cat. It doesn't understand why, and the stress that causes usually makes the problem worse.
Teaching a kitten or a new cat
Most kittens are already litter-trained when they come to you: they learned it from their mother. In a new home they only need to find the box. For the first few days, let your kitten live in a smaller space, with the box, the food and a place to sleep at a good distance from each other. Put it in the box after eating, after playing and after waking up. Let it dig by itself; that is all it takes.
Quick check: is your litter box up to scratch?
- One box per cat, plus one, spread around the house
- One and a half times as long as your cat
- Quiet, within reach and well away from the food
- Five to seven centimetres of unscented litter
- Scooped every day, fully replaced regularly
- A change in behaviour? See the vet first
This guide offers general advice. With any health concerns or sudden changes in toilet habits, always see your vet first.
Products in this article
